Elegantly structured and delicious, this fragrant red has enticing scents of ripe forest berries, iris, truffle and balsamic whiffs of camphor. Combining body and finesse, the savory, focused palate delivers juicy Marasca cherry, crushed raspberry and baking spice before an almost salty finish. Tightly knit, fine-grained tannins provide support while fresh acidity keeps it well-balanced. Drink 2024-2032.

The 2017 Barolo Villero is a powerful wine with a deep center of fruit and brawny tannins that wrap it all up. Dried cherry, red plum, rose petal, mint and spice abound. The Villero is a bit nervous today, then again, it is Villero. The 2017 is an eccentric wine that today appears to be lacking in freshness.