Succulent cherry, raspberry and rose aromas and flavors are framed by vanilla and toasty oak in this majestic red, which is concentrated, yet lithe and fruity, with an intense sappiness to the texture. Beautifully balanced and long, this soars on the complex, mineral-infused aftertaste. Best from 2025 through 2050.

The 2017 Chambertin Grand Cru is just a glorious success. Vivid red fruit, Morello cherries, wild strawberry and pressed violets on the nose, the aromatics here feel so animated and exquisitely defined. The palate is perfectly balanced with a killer line of acidity: crystalline red fruit, filigree tannins and more freshness than it knows what to do with. There is a sense of "channeled intensity" in this Chambertin and whilst there is no question that it is a 20- to 30-years wine, I felt no guilt in polishing this off in its youth. Tasted at Maison de Colombier in Beaune.