The 2021 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru contains around three-quarters whole bunches this year. It has a splendid bouquet with shimmering red fruit, crushed limestone, touches of pressed iris flower emerging with time. The palate does not deliver the opulence of the 2019 or 2020 as you would expect. This is streamlined by comparison, built around its fine-boned tannins, gently unfolding towards a crisp and tensile finish that oddly reminded me of a Clos des Lambrays. Persistent and tender, this is a fine Bonnes-Mares albeit without the inbuilt longevity of other vintages.