Mesmerizing aromas of violet, rose, perfumed berry and dried aromatic herb mingle together with a whiff of forest floor in this compelling wine. Full-bodied, elegant and delicious, the structured palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, cranberry, licorice and tobacco framed in youthfully assertive but refined tannins. It closes on a tangy mineral note. Drink 2027-2037.

The 2017 Barolo Brea Vigna Ca' Mia is an exotic, intriguing wine. Sage, mint, black cherry, gravel, licorice, rose petal and smoke infuse the Ca' Mia with a good deal of Serralunga wildness. There is plenty of tannin, so readers will have to be patient. Even so, the 2017 comes across as a bit light in body and overall depth relative to the norm.